Makola Market: Avoid the Meat

After my initial week or so orientating myself with the various pockets of activity throughout Accra I ventured to the Makola Markets, the largest market in Ghana, with fellow Canadians, Jan and Diana.  Our taxi drops us to where I believe is roughly the northeast corner of the markets.  In a market with thousands of stalls and no idea of the exact layout, we dive in and follow our instinct.  

Narrow path upon narrow path surrounded by goods both local and imported we are surrounded by the bustle of the market, trying to navigate our way through while simultaneously absorbing our first Ghanaian market experience.   This introduction to the country’s largest market was not the time for aimless shopping, but rather browsing from a slight distance until gaining our bearings. If you did, however, happen to show interest in any product be prepared to encounter an eager market vendor, particularly since an obroni inherently equates to wealth. 

Prior to exploring this market I had read up on it in my trusty Bradt: Ghana travel guide.  As my travel guide had advised those with a soft stomach would be best to avoid the meat section of the market - as you could imagine the smell of raw meat in temperatures of roughly 30C, which feels like 40C, is rather unpleasant.  Needless to say, it is neither for the faint hearted or faint stomachs, which is particularly why I was not keen to explore this section of the market.  However, as we turned left and then right, continued straight and maybe another right we pretty much had very little control of where we ended up in the expansive web of stalls, especially for novices lacking what would take years of experience.  Therefore, we default to our sense of smell and are almost suddenly struck by an encroaching unwelcome aroma.  Luckily, it is still distant but nevertheless I am reminded of what I had previously read and immediately think at all costs “AVOID THE MEAT, AVOID THE MEAT, AVOID THE MEAT!!!!!!” and while keeping calm and collective, although inside my head screaming “TURN LEFT, TURN LEFT, TURN LEFT,” casually suggest “maybe we should turn left and head this way?”

Safely out of harms way, we stubble upon household goods ranging in everything from pots and pans, glassware, blenders to buckets, mops and most importantly clothes pegs.  Although we were still mainly functioning under observer status I was in need of two things that day, clothes pegs and ground pepper.  And immediately think “YAY we have found CLOTHES PEGS!” – clearly I was delighted. Keeping in mind we are still beginners and maintaining a strong sense of alertness we avoid bartering and Jan and I both pay the asking price of 1 cedi (approx 60cents) per package, an absolute bargain by Canadian standards.  My instinct tells me I’ve obviously over paid the market price and ask if I can take a photo of my lovely vendor at her stall – at least this way I’m getting my full cedi worth. I had earlier been sternly advised in another section of the market that photos cannot be taken at freewill, as these extremely business minded women know that with the advancements of technology these photos will likely be seen across the globe and may request their fair share of profit from this exposure.  Immediately following our purchase and photo opportunity, women at the neighboring stall call over in their local language (either Akan or Ga, the two main languages spoken in Accra besides English) to what I can only assume was how much she made from our purchases as her response was “2 cedi” accompanied by proud smile.  Thus, confirming my initial instinct while simultaneously satisfying in that not only has this market women made a decent profit but also that I have made my first purchase at a Ghanaian market.

The open-air markets throughout Ghana, predominately found in the major urban centres, such as Accra and Kumasi, dominate the country’s commerce sector and are controlled by women, commonly referred to as market queens.   The system of market queens is hierarchical in nature and often has been a lifelong vocation, passed on from parent to children.  Market queens possess strong control over product distribution and price setting as well as grant permission to traders, which are also predominately women of lower status in the market hierarchy, to sell in markets under their control. 

As a result of their power over the commerce sector, market women have received varying degrees of backlash from government and producers.  The former was during the 1979 military coup, lead by Lt. Jerry Rawlings, Makola Market was bombed as a measure of controlling prices and ensuring no one could manipulate the market and make a profit.  In the early 1980s under continued military rule market women lost their goods and some were stripped naked and whipped in the open if they sold above the controlled price.  However, since returning to democracy in 1992 Ghana no longer uses such aggressive military strength over the open-air markets. Although today market women are increasingly confronted with the frustrations of their dominance from local producers largely from the agricultural sector, as farmers attempt to enhance their financial growth and competitiveness. 

Stayed tuned,more blogs to come!